NEGATIVE EFFECTS OF TETHERING

Converting Feral Cats to Indoor Pets

I’m frequently asked how to convert feral cats to satisfactory pets, and even if it’s possible. Yes, it’s possible, but not easy. Even pet-bred cats can be difficult to totally acclimate to your household rules if they were raised feral, especially since birth.

Most owners wind up compromising their standards or desires to some degree to their cat’s choice of actions. Successfully imposing your choices onto a cat that has spent time living totally by its own choices increases the difficulty. With ferals, you’re not just trying to teach it a new way – yours – but you’re also trying to break very firmly established patterns of its own. When behaviors unacceptable to you have kept the cat alive, there is a definite clash.

First, realize that the cat’s resistance to your choices is not simple contention but the cat’s drive to continue acts that have succeeded for it so far. It knows it’s way of doing things works, but it has no way of knowing your new ways will work. Since its life and comfort are at stake, it’ll take its own way, thanks!

The biggest thing to keep in mind is PATIENCE. Go slowly. You’re trying to convince a cat with perhaps no reason whatsoever to trust humans that your ways will benefit it. That’s not done quickly or simply. We joke about feline independence; imagine how much greater that independence is when it has kept the cat alive. Ferals have no reason to trust or rely upon humans and often have reason to distrust us because of being chased away or assaulted when spotted. Changing conditioned attitudes is a slow process.

An early dilemma is medical treatment. You’ll want your veterinarian to thoroughly examine and immunize it but such treatment can be traumatic to an under-socialized feral. But if you have babies or existing pets, you cannot afford much time getting it used to handling because of the potential spread of disease. But traumatic handling and shots can truly upset the feral. Therefore the dilemma.

Try handling your new feral on your own to determine just how accepting it is of such contact. Let the vet know it’s a feral so more than normal care will be used. With vet guidance you may consider tranquilizing the cat before the visit. But ONLY with medical guidance; drugging a cat of unknown physical or medical condition is dangerous. That’s why few vets agree to such a procedure.

Controlling indoor behavior is best done by eliminating options as much as possible. Whatever you want to happen, try to make it happen but then have it result in a reward for the cat. Keep it in a single room for the first few weeks with its food dishes in one corner and its litterbox in the far corner. When it adapts and its behaviors are normal and acceptable, give it the rest of your home at the rate of one room a week. Slowly, patiently, gently, positively.

 There are groups that can assist you. Contact the Feral Cat Coalition in your area; they’re super – and deserve our support. Local humane societies, departments of animal control and veterinary clinics often have experienced staffers that can also help. Ask. And care well for your new friend.

Choosing Your Dog's NAME!

 Because dog confusion is a major obstacle to training success, what you name your dog and how you use that name can determine your success in its training and behavior.

Dogs are vocal, not verbal. How words sound is important to them, so consider that then choosing names and commands. To your dog, the words "No," "Know," "Beau" and "Joe" are the same sound; the dog will have trouble knowing which you mean. If you name him "Beau" and use "No!" as a reprimand, saying: "Beau, you know what I want!" reprimands him twice although you didn't intend a single one! You always want your dog to come to you when you call it, so how much sense does it make to name your dog "Beau" and use "NO!" as your reprimand? It'll have trouble knowing whether you called it or yelled at it.

I like to have a dog choose its name. There are two ways to do this. First, spend enough time with the dog to really get to know its personality and select a suitable name. For example, when new to us my Husky-mix not only jumped on me, he pinned me to the wall and took stuff out of my shirt pocket! I said to my wife: "Look at this! I'm getting mugged!" Naturally, he became Mugger! A client had a very rambunctious Great Dane pup and I love the name she chose: Chaos! Let the dog earn its name!

Another way is to make a list of your favorite names and, in a playful and animated voice, try them on the dog. The one to which the dog reacts best is IT! And it WILL react differently to different names! Try it!

Contrary to popular belief, a dog's name should change with every new owner. The old thought was that once a dog recognized its name you couldn't or shouldn't change it. Wrong. Since many owners make the mistake of using the name with a reprimand, or even AS the reprimand, if you keep the old name you tell the dog you're one of THEM - the former crew. If the dog is now yours, you can't presume former owners did everything right. If they did, you probably wouldn't have it. And you're trying to tell the dog this is a new start in a new home, right? Then why use the old name - especially when it was likely used negatively in the past?

Some say changing a dog's name just confuses the dog. HAH! Every dog I know has about ten names now! Depending upon my mood, it may be Mugger, Muggs, Muggsie, Muggeroo, The Mug, Boy-o, Big Guy, Mug-Shot, Handsome, or some other spur-of-the-moment endearment! Just TRY to tell me your dog only hears ONE name EVER from EVERYONE! And no matter what I call Mugger, he has never seemed confused! If you aren't wild about your dog's name or you've thought of a great new one, you can change it now!

Now that we've all named our dogs so appropriately, next we'll talk about how to USE those names correctly. Be prepared for some surprises!

Using Your Dog's NAME!

 How you use your dog's name can cause it much confusion. Your dog will associate related events and see a relationship between contiguous impressions. It gets excited when you get the leash out, right? Sure, because the leash means a walk, a fun event. The box means treats, the food dish means a meal, a brush means grooming and nail clippers mean getting nails clipped. When you know very well that your dog forms many strong associations, why believe or assume it won't make similar assumptions and learn similar things regarding its name?

For example, I say: "Rover, Come!" and "Rover, Stay!" away from me. The next time I say Rover, do I expect him to break towards me or run away? Because I was just silly enough to teach him it means both! Look at how silly I can be: "Rover, Shut Up!" "Get Down, Rover!" "Rover, NO!" These are great ways to teach him that the word Rover means a reprimand. I then say: "Honey, Rover was so cute today! When Sam visited, Rover played so nicely! Even Carl liked Rover!" Rover just got ignored for paying attention to his name three times because I wasn't talking to him!

What have I done wrong so far here? First, I taught Rover that his name doesn't mean him, so he can ignore it. Second, I taught him it means punishment. Third, I taught him it means to stay away from me. But if he doesn't come to me EVERY time I call him, I'll rip his lips off! Do you see how we confuse our dogs?

The old belief was to use the dog's name to get its attention and then use the command to tell him what to do. Get its attention? What was he doing, worrying about the mortgage? When was the last time you entered the room and DIDN'T get his attention?! This belief also contradicts what we know about dog learning, like contiguous association. You know that he links related events, so why use his name to mean whatever occurs to you? Even without formal explanation, that simply doesn't make sense.

Another common incorrect belief is that you must use the dog's name with any verbal cue if you have more than one dog. Otherwise the dogs won't know which one you're talking to. This, too, will be proven incorrect shortly.

One of the most common desires of dog owners is to have their dog come when they call it. This is much easier and more reliably successful if you first remove any reason it has NOT to come when called. If the name means reprimands or to stay away from you, you sure gave it reasons not to come when called!

Here's the answer: Use a dog's name only when you are directly addressing that dog in a positive way. Say it when giving the dog meals, treats, love, massages, petting, walks and whatever it really likes. And the ONLY command you say it with is "Come!" because coming to you should be among your dog's greatest joys, so that's consistent with all the other positive things its name is linked with. If the ONLY times your dog hears his name is "Yes, Rover! Good Rover! Rover, here's a treat! Have a massage, Rover!" how does he NOT come when you call him?!

A very effective way to verbally correct a dog and avoid its name is to use specific words. "Off!" means stay on the floor or get off of whatever he's on. "Quiet!" means to be silent, not be bark or howl. "Drop!" means to leave something alone or drop it from his mouth. So now you don't need a name! If one or two dogs is/are barking, "Quiet!" not only tells them what to do, it tells all of them exactly who you're addressing! The quiet dogs know you mean the loudmouths! Same with Off, Drop, Back, Out or whatever direction you say.

See? You CAN correct just one dog without using names! Not only can you, it's better to do it this way! If I say: "Dogs, come!" they all come to me. "Girls, come!" and the females come. "Boys, come!" and the males come. Or "Mugger, come!" and Mugger comes. Where's the problem or confusion?

The point is very simple: Don't use your dog's name to mean contradictory or diametrically opposed things. Use it to mean only good things directed to that dog, and make coming to you a very good thing. I've done this for decades with dozens of my own and thousands of client dogs all over the world. I KNOW it works very well.

Given what I hear about training today, the dog's aren't the only ones confused!

Praise Educationally!

The more sense you make to your dog and the more positive you make the process of learning, the more success you have teaching him or her.

When we give a command and our dog obeys, it's common for us to say: "Good dog!" or "Good boy!" Sounds okay, right? But the last time he defied you, wasn't he a "dog?" And every time he does something you don't like, isn't he a "boy?" My point: Your dog obeys you, and you respond to his correct response, thinking you're rewarding his obedience - but he may not have the vaguest idea what you're rewarding! He's a boy dog whether or not he obeys you! From HIS point of view - and, after all, that's the one that matters most to him - how does he know what he did right and what to do again next time?

You can get better results in less time by using a simple procedure: Use the command word as the praise word. For example, you say "Sit!" and he does. Immediately praise by saying: "Good SIT! Good sit, Fido! Good sit!" Now he knows exactly what he did right! And hearing the word "sit" in a positive and animated tone makes him welcome hearing it again next time! And you just told him what to do to get great praise next time! It eliminates confusion, rewards the correct act, and encourages future performance! All results of using the command word as praise are positive and constructive! There is no down-side; it's all good!

Your dog is across the yard from you and you say: "Fido, come!" As soon as he breaks toward you, begin animated praise such as "Yes! Good come, Fido! Good come!" By then he'll probably be at your side, sitting. Praise him lavishly saying "come" positively and you will very likely achieve a very reliable recall!

Try using the command directive as the praise word and see what good results you get!